What Is Coily Hair and How Should You Care For It?
Here’s how to keep your coils hydrated, bouncy, and healthy-looking.
August 13, 2024
The terms curly hair and coily hair are often used interchangeably to describe strands that boast a distinct spiral shape. But if you have natural hair, you’re probably aware—they’re not the same thing. While coily hair is a type of curly hair, it requires special care to look and feel its best. Products designed for finer, looser curls probably won’t do the job.
If you’re wondering what, specifically, makes coils different from curls—and what that means for you—keep reading. Below, we’re sharing an in-depth guide on the characteristics of coily hair types and offering tips on ways to make your natural texture shine. Plus, you’ll get a look at some of our best coily hair products to add to your routine.
What Is Coily Hair?
Coily hair—also known as type 4 hair—is a natural hair type characterized by the presence of tight S- or Z-shaped curls (or, more succinctly, coils). There are three subtypes of type 4 hair: 4A, 4B, and 4C.
4A hair type
Type 4A hair has strands that form springy, S-shape coils from root to tip. These curls are usually fine in texture and tend to be extremely tight (they’re roughly as wide as a crochet needle).
4B hair type
4B hair features that take on a “Z” shape, bending at sharp angles with a less defined curl pattern. The strands are densely packed together and tend to be coarser than that of type A hair. Regular moisturizing and gentle care are required to maintain elasticity and prevent breakage.
4C hair type
4C hair is the coarsest of the type 4 hair subtypes. The curl pattern in this hair type is similar to 4B hair, but tighter and more defined. Type 4C hair tends to shrink the most of all type 4 hair types and is very delicate. It requires consistent moisture and gentle handling to prevent breakage and maintain length.
Coily Hair vs. Curly Hair: What's the Difference?
All coils are curls, but not all curls are coils. Curly hair is an umbrella term that can refer to anything from loose, bouncy ringlets to dense, kinky spirals. Coily hair, meanwhile, only describes the densest, tightest of curls. While you may hear someone refer to coils as curls, it’s not entirely accurate. This is important to remember because tight coily hair requires a different haircare routine than finer curly hair—and the best products for coily hair may not work as well for someone with looser spirals.
How To Care For Coily Hair
Caring for coily hair requires a gentle hand, as this hair type can be prone to dryness and breakage. Ahead, you’ll find eight of our top tips to help your coils look and feel their best.
1. Use hydrating hair care products
The curlier the hair, the more difficult it is for oil to travel from the scalp down the strands—which is why tight coily hair is often dry and highly porous. Using hydrating products can help your strands retain moisture and minimize the chance of breakage when you style your strands.
On wash day, cleanse your hair with the L’Oréal Paris Elvive Dream Lengths Curls Moisture Push Shampoo, which gently cleanses and helps define curls without any weigh-down. For the best results, we suggest pairing it with the L’Oréal Paris Elvive Dream Lengths Curls Moisture Seal Conditioner—the hyaluronic acid and castor oil-infused formula helps lock in hydration for up to 72 hours.
After showering, apply the L’Oréal Paris Elvive Dream Lengths Curls Leave-in Conditioner throughout your mane from root to tip. The nourishing formula for curly and coily hair provides long-lasting moisture and helps define your natural hair texture without weighing it down.
2. Detangle with care
Coils are beautiful and delicate, and they require gentle handling. Don’t be too rough while detangling, as this can cause breakage and split ends. So, while detangling with a wide-tooth comb or your fingers, gently work your way from the bottom to the top and only detangle wet hair with conditioner or hair products added.
3. Embrace the LOC method
Type 4 hair is delicate and can get dry, which often causes your hairstyle to frizz. That’s where the LOC method can come in handy. The technique involves applying a leave-in conditioner, then oil (or serum), and ending your routine with a styling cream to help retain long-lasting moisture and keep frizziness at bay.
After cleansing, conditioning, and detangling your strands on wash day, work the L'Oréal Paris Elvive Dream Lengths Frizz Killer Serum Leave-In throughout your coils. The sulfate-free formula with castor oil helps tame frizz and static and protects against temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit (a must if you plan to use any heat styling tools). Then, add your favorite cream styler and scrunch your coils with the L’Oréal Paris Advanced Hairstyle Boost It Volume Inject Mousse to enhance your curl definition and add volume.
4. Sleep on silk pillowcases
Sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase is a must if you have delicate coily hair. These fabrics are slippery and create less friction against your strands than a cotton or linen pillowcase might. By keeping friction to a minimum, you’ll experience less breakage and frizz come sunrise. Plus, silk and satin are less absorbent than cotton—which means they’re less likely to soak up all the moisture from the haircare products you use at night. If you don’t want to shell out on a new pillowcase, a silk or satin bonnet works equally well to protect your strands while you snooze.
5. Get regular trims
The ends of your coily hair are the most prone to breakage, so trimming your ends regularly can help prevent split ends. Book an appointment with a professional hairstylist—ideally, one well-versed in coily cuts—to trim your ends and discuss the best trimming schedule for you.
6. Don’t neglect your scalp
Those with coily hair typically use a lot of styling products to keep their hair looking its best, and over time, those products can accumulate on your scalp and roots. If you’re dealing with build-up, we suggest adding a clarifying scalp treatment to your routine once a week (or as needed). Try the L’Oréal Paris Elvive Hyaluron + Pure Oil Erasing Serum for Oily Hair. The salicylic acid-infused formula helps minimize excess oils and remove scalp residue—all while infusing the hair with up to 72 hours of hydration.
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7. Avoid shampooing too frequently
Those with finer, straighter hair often need to shampoo several times per week in order to keep greasiness at bay. But coily hair is different—and those with this hair type can typically go several days or more without shampooing. Spacing out how often you shampoo can also help prevent your hair from drying out. If you’re unsure when to schedule wash day each week, we suggest consulting a hairstylist well-versed in coily hair care.
8. Choose the right hairstyle for coily hair
There are countless hairstyles that can complement and help protect your natural texture. Whether you're gearing up for a special event or want to switch up your everyday look, here are a few of the best hairstyles for coily hair that will keep you looking fabulous and feeling confident.
- Protective styles: Protective hairstyles like box braids, bantu knots, and two-strand twists can help shield your delicate strands from damage. Plus, they’re designed to last several weeks, so they can make styling your hair in the morning practically effortless. Just be sure not to lean too heavily on ultra-tight styles, as the tension created by tighter hairstyles can irritate your scalp over time.
- Wash-and-go: Wash-and-gos are for you if you want to achieve defined coils. Apply gel and mousse products to achieve beautiful definition, and use techniques like raking and shingling. These methods assist with thoroughly distributing the product so you can have a long-lasting and defined wash-and-go.
- Afro: Rock your afro to embrace your coily texture fully! After adding your moisturizing products using the LOC method described above, air dry or sit under a hooded dryer to dry your coils. If you want bigger hair and love lots of volume, use a hair pick to loosen your coils for a fuller-looking ‘fro.
- Updos: Updos and buns are classic styles that beautifully complement coily hair. Depending on the occasion, you can opt for a classic bun, a trendy pompadour, or a sleek updo. Start by gathering your hair into a high or low ponytail, then twist or coil the hair into your desired bun shape. Secure with bobby pins and accessorize with decorative clips or pins.
- Frohawk: The frohawk is a bold and edgy hairstyle that highlights the natural beauty of coily hair. Start by parting your hair down the center and pinning the sides back with bobby pins or hair clips. The center section should be left out, strikingly contrasting the pinned sides. You can add volume using a hair pick to lift the center section. This look is perfect for making a statement and works well for casual outings and special events.
Caring for coily hair is about embracing its unique texture and giving it the love and attention it deserves. You can keep your curls looking their best by understanding your coily hair's specific needs—hydration, gentle detangling, or choosing the best style to show off your coils. Investing in the right products and adopting a consistent hair care routine will help maintain your hair's health and vitality. With patience and care, your coily hair will shine (literally and figuratively).
